When speaking with customers, I often find that when they’ve decided to buy a luxury watch they’ve narrowed it down to one brand that takes their interest. Where to go from there is the difficult step. If you’re new to the horology market, watches from the same maker can bear many of the same traits. For Cartier, this is the square watch face; for IWC, it’s the oversized dial; and for Omega, it’s the distinctive twisted ‘lyre’ lugs.Â
We’ve covered the top 5 Omega watches to buy, but for many people it comes down to two families: the Seamaster and the Speedmaster. Whilst similar in name, it’s the small differences that separate these two watches - not to mention all the special variants and versions. I’m here to walk you through these differences and help you find the right Omega.
Heritage
You might be struggling to pick between the two because they both share a longstanding, impressive history.
Seamaster: Water Resistance and 007
The oldest watch made by Omega, founded in 1948 off the back of the brand supplying watches to the British Ministry of Defence during WW2. They brought military-grade technology and water resistance to the average citizen, using O-ring gasket technology from submarines.
The Omega Seamaster 300 came in 1957 at a time when recreational and professional scuba diving gained popularity. It featured a rotating bezel, luminous hands and double crown seals, taking the watch from splash-proof into a real underwater tool.
The Seamaster Professional Diver 300M in 1993 was used in GoldenEye on Pierce Brosnan’s James Bond, and has remained the official watch of James Bond ever since.
Speedmaster: From the Racetrack to the Moon
The original Speedmaster was designed for race car drivers, engineers, and sports enthusiasts. It was the first chronograph to move the tachymeter scale (used to calculate speed over a known distance) from the dial to the exterior bezel, which improved legibility at high speeds.
Whilst working on the Gemini program in the ‘60s, NASA anonymously purchased watches from major brands and subjected them to extreme tests like thermal vacuums, violent shocks, high humidity and severe vibration. NASA was looking to find a reliable chronograph for its astronauts, and the Speedmaster was the only watch to survive the trials without catastrophic failure. The Speedmaster solidified its position as a space-worthy timepiece when Buzz Aldrin strapped his Speedmaster to the outside of his spacesuit, making it the first watch worn on the moon.
Winner: For age alone, the Seamaster slides into first place. But this all depends on whether you’re more into the ocean or space; either way, you’re getting a classic watch with a great backstory.
Appearance
If customers are having a difficult time deciding between these two legendary watches, I always encourage them to choose the one that calls to them when placed on the wrist. After all, if you’re wearing the watch daily, you need to enjoy the way it looks on you.
Seamaster
Omega Seamaster watches are somewhat instantly recognisable, largely due to the prominent scalloped-edge bezel. Whilst it’s become a defining feature for the watch, it also serves a purpose - the alternating smooth curves and indentations help divers grip the bezel underwater. Many Seamasters feature an iconic laser-engraved wave dial, paying homage to its oceanic history. The hour and minute hands are partially hollowed out with luminous tips to ensure they don’t obscure the date window or subdials when passing over them.
Speedmaster
As the Speedmaster was the first to move the tachymeter scale off the dial and onto the external bezel, this part is the most recognisable on this watch. This typically comes in the form of a black surface with white detailing, but alternatives such as this diamond-bezelled 38mm chronograph (324.15.38.50.05.001) show just how versatile the collection gets. The lugs (where the bracelet attaches to the case) feature a complex, faceted inward twist, giving it an asymmetric look while protecting the crown and chronograph simultaneously.
Winner: For me it’s the Seamaster. It’s recognisable, versatile for wearing everyday, and has that additional functionality for diving that just tips it over the edge.
Functionality
If the history or the appearance still leave you undecided, I’d encourage you to look at the specifications of the watch. Note that these may vary depending on specific models, but there are some general features that each family shares.
Seamaster
- Unidirectional Rotating Bezel: Used to track elapsed dive time, the bezel only rotates anti-clockwise, meaning if it’s bumped underwater, it can only accidentally shorten the remaining dive time calculation rather than extend it; an essential feature for divers.
- 300M Water Resistance: You’re safe 300M underwater with the Seamaster, a feat that the Speedmaster can’t compare to with just 50M of resistance.
- Diver Extension Clasp: In many models, the metal bracelets incorporate a rack-and-pinion micro-adjustment system, allowing you to expand the length link immediately rather than using tools. A helpful one for readjusting over the sleeve of a thick wetsuit in an instant.Â
Speedmaster
- Triple-Register Chronograph: Many Omega Speedmaster watches feature three sub-dials, including a small running seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock.
- Fixed Tachymeter Scale: By starting the chronograph seconds hand at a marker, travelling exactly one kilometre or mile, and stopping it, the scale directly reveals the average speed in units per hour.
- Manual-wind movement: The classic Speedmaster movement uses a manual-wind movement that you must wind by hand.
It’s important to remember that these watches share similar features too, such as they are both powered by Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, an industry-leading, precise calibre.
Winner: If you dive, the Seamaster is a clear winner. But, if you’re not likely to use all the underwater features and the Speedmaster appeals to you, you’re still getting a capable, functionality-packed piece.
Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster Comparison
If we put all of this together, we’ve got a quick overview of all that each watch has to offer:
| Omega Seamaster | Omega Speedmaster | |
| Heritage | Launched in 1948 from the brand's WW2 supply work for the British Ministry of Defence, using submarine-style O-ring gaskets | Designed for race car drivers, engineers and sports enthusiasts |
| Bezel | Scalloped edge, unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking dive time | Tachymeter scale on the external bezel, usually black with white detailing |
| Dial | Laser-engraved wave pattern on many models, hollowed hands with luminous tips | Triple-register chronograph (small seconds at 9, 30-minute recorder at 3, 12-hour totaliser at 6) |
| Water resistance | 300M | 50M |
| Movement | Self-winding automatic | Manual-wind (classic Speedmaster) |
Which One Should You Purchase?
I hope this guide has provided you some insight on which Omega watch you should choose. But ultimately, I’d always recommend trying the pieces on in-person to get a true feel for which one you prefer. Banks Lyon Jewellers are an official Omega stockist, and we can provide you with all the expert information and details that you need to make an informed decision.
Browse our full range of Omega watches or visit us in person at our Lancaster store.