Establishing an emblematic men’s watch in the world of beautiful craftsmanship by creating Cartier’s first Manufacture self-winding chronograph movement in its honour. Overturning codes and conventions by combining irreverence and respect to reaffirm a natural gift for exclusivity in a creation that is bold in terms of both its forms and history. Bringing an age-old artistic craft back into fashion and, over several hundred hours’ work, creating a watch with a magnetic, animal presence…
This is the dynamism and creativity of Cartier watch making.
Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch 1904-CH MC movement
With its strong lines and robust case, the Calibre de Cartier watch, created in 2010, has made its mark as a distinguished timepiece whose balance relies on a contrasting combination of satin-brushed and polished finishes.
In 2013, Cartier will equip it with its brand new Manufacture chronograph movement, the calibre 1904-CH MC, and will redesign the sporty look of this watch with a strongly defined character.
The strong aesthetics of a 100% Manufacture chronograph
Armed with the first Manufacture self-winding chronograph movement created by Cartier, the Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch inaugurates a collection of eight models on leather straps and metal bracelets, from the all-steel version to the version in gem-set white gold. They are sporty versions that toughen the Calibre de Cartier watch’s provocative spirit and encourage the wearer to excel.
It is a watch with strong design codes: two counters, at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, a graduated rail-track in the fluted bezel, positioned in pride of place on the dial, and above the counters, an oversize XII numeral. This dynamism is reinforced by the presence of the two chronograph push-pieces integrated into the crown reinforcement.
Regaining lost time: an intelligent, precise chronograph
The 1904-CH MC is a concentrated combination of ingenious systems that guide and coordinate the chronograph functions.
The column wheel, the real nerve centre of the movement, precisely and accurately coordinates the three functions of the chronograph (start / stop / return to zero). This system, characteristic of finely crafted chronographs, is visible on the back thanks to the openwork of the upper bridge.
Furthermore, to ensure the high precision of the chronograph functions, the calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a vertical coupling that allows the traditional jumps of the seconds hand to be eliminated during the start and stop phases. This coupling system also means that the energy consumption of the chronograph is minimised while it is functioning without altering the timepiece’s power reserve or chronograph stability.
The simultaneous return-to-zero of all the chronograph functions is a delicate, complex step requiring perfect coordination. Cartier has chosen to integrate a linear return-to-zero hammer into the calibre 1904-CH MC in order to guarantee the instant, simultaneous and precise return of all the chronograph hands, whatever the force exerted on the push-piece.
An innovative system for exceptional timekeeping
This new 11 ½-line calibre is designed to ensure perfect chronometric stability, however much the watch has been wound. The movement is equipped with two barrels that guarantee the perfect constancy of the mainspring torque over a long duration and allow the chronometric precision to be mastered and stabilised. The calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a precise setting system, guaranteeing the movement’s perfect timekeeping. This operation is carried out by the Cartier master watchmakers who meticulously adjust the C-shaped index pointer.
The movement’s self-winding system is regularly subjected to strong pressure that could affect its ability to function correctly. In order to compensate for this weakness, the calibre 1904-CH MC is fitted with a ceramic ball-bearing system situated at the centre of the rotor, which ensures extreme durability.
Cartier has also cast aside the traditional reversers present in self-winding mechanisms in favour of the even more innovative click system. It allows the watch’s winding comfort to be optimised thanks to its increased winding speed. Finally, thanks to a two-directional winding system, the oscillating weight automatically winds the movement, whatever the direction of its rotation.
Fine watchmaking finishes that go beyond what is visible
The decorators’ endless quest for beauty produces the most impressive results in fine watchmaking movements. Visible through the Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch’s transparent sapphire-crystal case back, the upper bridges and oscillating weight are adorned with traditional Côtes de Genève decoration.
The bottom plate, masked by the movement’s components, is circular-grained. The care lavished on the finishes of the calibre 1904-CH MC is a fine example of Cartier’s extremely high standards when creating a movement, with excellent craftsmanship that even goes beyond what is visible.
Calibre de Cartier chronograph watch 1904-CH MC movement
Case: steel
Diameter: 42 mm
Crown: seven-sided crown in steel adorned with a faceted blue synthetic spinel
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m / 330 feet / 10 bars
Dial: silvered opaline dial, snailed in part, stamped on the XII numeral, the hour markers and aperture, Roman numerals and black transferred hour markers. Two snailed counters (hour/minute) with diamond-set bevel.
Bezel: steel with engraved rail-track
Hands: sword-shaped in black oxidised steel with a luminescent coating
Strap: steel
Clasp: steel safety clasp
Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical chronograph calibre 1904-CH, calendar window at 6 o’clock
Casing-up diameter: 11 ½ lines, 25.58 mm
Total diameter: 26.18 mm
Thickness: 5.71 mm
Number of jewels: 35
Number of parts: 269
Balance: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Finish: côtes de Genève
Case: 18-carat pink gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Crown: seven-sided crown in gold adorned with a faceted sapphire
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Water-resistance: 100 m / 330 feet / 10 bars
Dial: silvered opaline dial, snailed in part, stamped on the XII numeral, the hour markers and aperture, Roman numerals and black transferred hour markers. Two snailed counters (hour/minute) with gold bevel.
Bezel: gold with engraved rail-track
Hands: sword-shaped in black oxidised steel with a luminescent coating
Strap: dark-brown semi-matt alligator skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding clasp in 18-carat pink gold
Movement: Manufacture self-winding mechanical
chronograph calibre 1904-CH, calendar window
at 6 o’clock
Casing-up diameter: 11 ½ lines, 25.58 mm
Total diameter: 26.18 mm
Thickness: 5.71 mm
Number of jewels: 35
Number of parts: 269
Balance: 28,800 vibrations / hour (4Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Finish: côtes de Genève
View our full Calibre de Cartier watches here.
