Platinum on a Tool Watch? Why Breitling’s New Navitimer B01 Chronograph Tribute to Concorde is Absolutely Genius

The connection between haute horlogerie and aviation is profound. Both disciplines demand an uncompromising level of precision, micro-mechanics, along with a commitment to aerodynamic and chronometric perfection. For the discerning collector, the name Breitling is inextricably linked to all the above in its conquest of the skies. After all, the brand from Grenchen has long reigned as the unrivaled master of “instruments for professionals”. Yet even Breitling’s storied pantheon still strikes an emotional chord with those yet to wear one. The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde (Ref. AB01389C1C1P1) is a mechanical masterpiece that is likely to arouse the interest of newcomers with its commemorative flair. It celebrates the 50th anniversary of the maiden flight of the world’s most glamorous supersonic passenger airliner.

Developed jointly by Aérospatiale and the British Aircraft Corporation (BAC), the Concorde broke the sound barrier and rendered the Atlantic Ocean a mere puddle with its ability to cruise at Mach 2.04. Meanwhile, its passengers dined on caviar and vintage champagne at an altitude of 60,000 feet. To honour such an audacious machine requires a timepiece of equal gravitas - hence Breitling. The brand has answered the call with the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph Tribute to Concord - a stunning limited edition of just 593 pieces, distinguished by a solid platinum bezel.

Heritage and The Olympus 593 Synergy

To appreciate the magnitude of this tribute, we must cast our minds back to 1952, the year Willy Breitling birthed the original Navitimer. The slide rule was already the quintessential calculating tool for scientists, engineers, and mathematicians, but Breitling astutely integrated a circular, logarithmic slide rule into the Navitimer in the early 1950s, enabling pilots to perform vital in-flight calculations such as fuel consumption, airspeed, rate of climb, and descent. It effectively transformed the wristwatch into a miniature flight computer, proving so groundbreaking that the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) swiftly adopted it as their official timepiece.

The Concorde, born in a subsequent era of rapid aeronautical innovation, shared this ethos of airborne utility. Where the Navitimer redefined the pilot’s wrist, Concorde redefined global geography, shrinking the world and bringing continents closer together. Given this nuanced history, the partnership of these two icons seems only natural. Breitling’s homage is an intelligent distillation of Concorde’s soul, embroidered into the DNA of the brand’s most signature silhouette. For the hardcore Breitling collector, this is horological nectar to the wrist. A watch that speaks directly to the brand's aviation roots.

Exploring the Dial

At the epicentre of this timepiece lies a dial that commands unreserved adoration. Breitling has eschewed the ubiquitous black or silver in favour of a rich, stratospheric blue representative of the view from Concorde’s cabin windows at 60,000 feet in the air. The dial also exhibits a strong visual depth, catching the ambient light and shifting its temperament with every articulation of the wrist.

Set against this oceanic expanse are three contrasting, stark white sub-dials, arranged in a classic 'reverse-panda' configuration. The 30-minute register resides at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour counter with an integrated date aperture at 6 o'clock, and the running seconds located at 9 o'clock. These sub-dials are decorated with a delicate snailed finish, a detail that converses beautifully with the light. The choice of brilliant white also seems a touching reference to Concorde’s affectionate moniker, L'Oiseau Blanc, AKA The White Bird.

Framing the display is the famous circular slide rule. Rendered with crisp, flawlessly executed typography, the inner scale achieves complete legibility, permitting swift calculations to be made on the fly. Despite the sheer volume of information presented, the dial remains remarkably coherent. Hardcore fans will also rejoice at the inclusion of the vintage AOPA wings logo proudly positioned just below the 12 o'clock marker, a respectful doff of the hat to the model's 1950s genesis. The faceted hour markers and hands are generously treated with luminescent material, making sure that time can be referenced even in the gloom of a nocturnal cockpit.

The Case: Robust Proportions and the Platinum Bezel

Encapsulating this magnificent display is a 43mm stainless steel case. At 13.69mm in height and with a lug-to-lug distance of 49.07mm, it possesses a reassuring wrist presence, yet somehow avoids excessive bulk. This is, in part, due to the lugs, which are elegantly tapered, executing a gentle downward sweep that ensures the watch sits flush against the wrist. The case flanks also exhibit a sumptuous mixture of polished and satin-brushed surfaces -  an indication of Breitling's devotion to expert case-making.

However, the pièce de résistance has to be the bidirectional rotating bezel. Luxurious and indulgent, its distinctive knurled structure is made from solid platinum. To a purist, placing one of the world's most precious metals on a rugged steel aviation tool watch could appear contradictory. Yet, this platinum paradox is precisely what makes the Tribute to Concorde so brilliant. It perfectly illustrates the essence of the aircraft itself: a highly technical, functional machine that simultaneously offered the absolute pinnacle of first-class luxury.

This precious metal not only imparts a subtle, silvery-white lustre that steel simply can’t emulate, but it provides a clear sense of heft. The tactile feedback when manipulating the platinum bezel is superb. Imagine the pilot of yesteryear, devoid of modern digital technology, and instead, relying purely on the mechanical friction of this bezel to calculate critical fuel burns. It glides with a silky smoothness, permitting precise, micro-millimetric adjustments. The watch is also fitted with a cambered sapphire crystal, treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides to ensure a distortion-free view of the dial beneath. Lastly, the non-screw-locked crown, equipped with twin gaskets, guarantees a water resistance of 30 metres.

The Breitling Calibre B01

For the purist, the heart of any chronograph is its movement, and here, Breitling delivers an complete powerhouse. Inside the robust confines of the case is the revered Manufacture Calibre B01. Introduced over a decade ago, this was Breitling’s first self-winding mechanical movement, which firmly established itself as a modern benchmark for fully integrated chronograph calibres.

The B01 uses a column-wheel and vertical clutch arrangement for faultless engagement. The precise 'click' speaks volumes of the movement's exacting tolerances, while the vertical clutch makes certain that the central chronograph seconds hand embarks on its journey instantly, without the stutter or hesitation that plagues inferior horizontal clutch mechanisms. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it incorporates 320 parts and boasts an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Furthermore, the Calibre B01 is chronometer-certified by the COSC.

Turning the watch over reveals a screwed-in sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, providing a glorious window into the mechanical soul of the timepiece. Breitling adorns the bridges with a subtle finishing, while the oscillating weight rotates with an almost majestic grace. The engravings encircling the sapphire vista elevate this limited edition further. Adorning the perimeter are the inscriptions "One of 593," "Tribute to Concorde," "Jetliner," and "Mach 2", reminding the wearer of the aircraft’s cruising speed beyond the sound barrier.

The Strap

The Breitling Navitimer Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde watch is secured to the wrist by a sumptuous navy blue alligator leather strap that perfectly echoes the stratospheric tones of the dial. The alligator leather, once broken in, offers incredible comfort, tapering elegantly from 22mm at the lugs to 18mm at the buckle. A highly robust stainless-steel folding clasp is also embellished with the Breitling logo.

A Fitting Epitaph to the White Bird

The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde successfully commemorates a special timepiece without yielding to the pitfalls of gimmickry. In so many ways, it respects the intellect of its audience, providing a deeply nuanced homage that prioritises mechanical integrity. By pairing expert aviation watchmaking with the absolute pinnacle of commercial aerospace engineering, Breitling has forged a timepiece of great historical weight. The striking blue dial and autonomy of the Calibre B01, combined with the tactile luxury of a solid platinum bezel, culminate in a highly desirable collectible. The 'White Bird' may have been permanently grounded, but upon the wrist, its fearless, barrier-breaking spirit continues to soar.

Take Flight with Banks Lyon

With only 593 pieces available globally, the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde is sure to become a highly coveted rarity among discerning collectors. Do not miss your opportunity to own a piece of supersonic history. Discover and order your Breitling Navitimer Tribute to Concorde today at Banks Lyon by calling us on 07751807041 or visiting our Lancaster showroom.