Have you noticed how many ‘limited editions’ there are these days? It used to be that you would walk into a store and find one or two limited editions in the showcase (you could recognise them as they had the spotlight on them and the staff talked about them in hushed tones), these were special watches!
Today there are a lot more limited editions around and it can be confusing for the customer. Should they spend more on a limited edition or would they be better off with the ‘standard’ version? Is the extra cost justified? Will the limited edition be worth more in the future?
Let’s start by understanding what makes a limited edition a limited edition.
At the most literal level a limited edition is a watch where the manufacturer will only produce a set number of the piece and after that it won’t be produced again. Usually each piece is individually numbered, for example number 1 of 1,000. Life is a little more complicated than that though. There is usually something else that sets a limited edition apart – people who spend extra money for a limited edition want to feel that they are getting something special – something different.
At one extreme this might be nothing more than a logo on the dial to commemorate an event, at the other extreme it may be a ‘haute horlogerie’ piece that is issued in extremely limited numbers and features a tourbillon, minute repeater, etc. Some manufacturers make a big deal about the fact that all of their pieces are limited editions – they only produce a set number of each model each year, if you miss out then you have to wait until next year.
This is clearly a little (!) confusing, so how do you determine whether or not to buy a limited edition?
There is no simple answer to the question of limited edition or standard edition – it comes down to personal choice and the decision about whether the difference in price is worth it to you as a buyer. Let’s ignore the super high end pieces for now – a piece unique (limited edition of 1) tourbillon minute repeater is likely not a realistic consideration for most readers. Instead, let’s consider a more usual decision – between the standard and limited version of the same model from one of the big name Swiss manufacturers.
Recently, most Limited Edition Breitling watches have featured an exhibition caseback.
Consider first what sets the watch apart – what makes it a limited edition. There are practical and subjective criteria here. If the case is a different material then think about how that will wear – a gold case is softer than a steel case so is less practical as a daily wearer. Surface coatings vary considerably in their resilience – some are harder than steel, some will scratch and wear within a couple of months. Titanium is lighter than steel, but can also scratch more easily. Ceramic is a modern material that is being used more and more, but not all ceramics are created equal. Talk to the store staff and satisfy yourself that the watch can live up to your lifestyle and the use that you want to put it to.
On the less practical side, if one of the differences between the limited and standard edition is a display back then consider how important that is to you. There is no doubt that a see through sapphire crystal case back is darn cool – you can see the mechanical magic going on inside, but how much extra are you prepared to pay for that – £100, £200, £500, more?? Only you know the answer to that, but make sure that you are comfortable with the price that you are paying.
Next, consider the size of the limited edition – if the piece that you are looking at is a limited edition of 10,000 then that’s not particularly limited – the store probably has 2 or 3 in the case, has sold 5 or 6 and can order 10 more. On the other hand, if it’s a limited edition of 10 then the piece in your hands may be the only one in the country, and one of only 2 or 3 on the entire continent. Does that matter to you? You’ll pay more for that exclusivity, but if it’s meaningless to you then what’s the point? The number of the limited edition will also matter – number 1 is more valuable for obvious reasons, and the last number is also more valuable, but there are others as well – 8 is a lucky number in many Asian cultures so expect so 8, 88, 888, etc are more collectible. 4 is an unlucky number in the same cultures so 4, 44, 444, etc are less in demand.
Ask the store whether it is possible to order a specific number that has significance to you – to most people number 299 may not have any significance, but I was born on September 29th, so it does have meaning to me.
One thing that I would encourage you not to factor in to the decision is the future value of the piece. Without a shadow of a doubt there are limited editions that end up becoming tremendously valuable in the future, but with very few exceptions they have the following in common:
1)Â Â Â Â Â They were issued 20 or more years ago
2)Â Â Â Â Â They are extremely low production pieces (single digits)
There are exceptions, but not many. You should assume that the retained value of a limited edition will be the same as the standard edition in percentage terms, the nominal cash value may be higher, but that’s because the initial cost will be higher – don’t buy a limited edition watch (or any watch for that matter) as an investment, you will likely be disappointed.
So what does this all come down to – buy the watch you like the most. Exclusivity and unique features will undoubtedly factor into that decision, just as cost will, but if you decide to buy a limited edition it should be because you like the watch more than the standard edition – based on whatever criteria are important to you.
The purchase of a fine Swiss watch is (and should be) an emotional decision – it has to be driven by the heart, and when you strap on the right watch for you it will ‘speak’ to you – it will feel right in your heart. Don’t ignore that because the head says that the other option is the more logical choice!
Written by:Â Andy Jordan – Watch Enthusiast.